Currrently completing his Master's and Central Saint Martin's, Robert Sanders explores design within the fashion industry with a creative, out of the box aesthetic. The London deisgner has showcased shows in Brighton and London connecting the adaptions of genderless garments through mens collections. Fashion and modelling enthusiasts alike understand that the lead up to a show is an extremely stressful time and Sanders knows this all to well, after developing a desire to street cast models himself for his show last earlier this year. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Robert, what is it that really entices your creative outlook when designing a collection? 

 

As a fashion designer I seek inspiration from design in a broad scope from other's creative work in art, music, dance and fashion both to inform me of what is current, and what is tired. I am drawn to the bizarre, but in particular design forms that look careless, carefree and inconsidered but are cleverly exhibiting a lot of skill and thought.

 

Would you say when casting models for your own shows you consider your aesthetic with the look of the models? 

 

Ofcourse, I think it's so vital for a designer to pay attention to every detail and something as important as the models showcasing your garments can hinder the overall image.

 

What are your thoughts on the current status of the modelling industry? 

 

I think that models follow quite restrained and traditional ideals of consumer products that are not that different from the history of design promotion. They are images of sex, power, and money.

 

And in terms of the image of models, what are your opinions on the current model image that we are seeing within the industry?

 

I feel like the image of celebrity in the modelling industry is less than it was ten years ago, which I think is good for representing a realistic ideology of the human body.

 

There is definitley a more noticeable shift.

 

I also think there is still a cult or tribe of knowing and noticing the model celebrity, but it is becoming more niche. The most beautiful models look natural, relaxed and at ease in images as though there were no camera or 'beauty' intent, and hold their visual identity in their defects.

 

Do you think that the change in the model image is effecting the perception of models being role models to date?

 

I don't think it's at all about the fashion models role to set a standard of lifestyle for others; but perhaps this is specific to designers that see models as the object to the clothes subject. It is perhaps the role of the art director of the collection or shoot, but even this is up to interpretation for the viewer, customer or consumer, as the clothes and their environment can become art and therefore an influence on lifestyle, or merely an exhibit of a collection as a moment in time. 

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It's interesting to hear a completely different perspective towards that question. Turning back to you personal style, what type of models would you typically use for your collections and why?

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I try to stay true to my tribe 'Losergang'.

 

And this summarises...

 

Models that look as though they are removed from society, or a ghost of a culturutal group or norm. Sometimes I use models that I find physically appealing or beautiful, but combine my art direction to generate a simulation of a defect ... particularly if this links to something psychological e.g. insomnia, fatigue, madness, drunkenness, neglect.

 

When casting models what are the key features that stand out to you? 

 

Key importances for me are height, body proportion and a focus on natural style and attitude. I always want to work with people that are comfortable with uncomfortable fabrics, that are enthusiastic and fun and intregued.

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That's a good point to consider!

 

I like both end's of the spectrum, either extremely nervous or fear-free and up for being humiliated. I also look for models that have no problem with nudity, and ones that natural are performers, actors, or good movers.

 

On which note, do you feel personal character as a model is important?

 

Yes because otherwise it takes too long for the shoot/show to work and flow, or it doesn't happen at all. It also shows in the pose and face of the model, how they wear the clothes and allow them to sit as well as the practicality of how the collective work develops.

 

And as a designer do you care if models have a voice?

 

I love when models work tightly and closely with designers to extend the brand into something else, communicating their message in their own new way. It's beautiful when a design idea becomes a sound, a film, a voice or a story through means other than the direct brand. This is how I like to work with my models and this is how it should be.

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Agreed it's always nice to hear that models share a passion in to the work being curated alongside a designer etc. In terms of models having a voice for themselves and their role, do you think they are heard when there is something they feel strongly about?

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I would say not noticeably enough.

 

We're curious to know what are your opinions on the current models used by designers at LFW? As a designer in London is there any inspiration that you take from peer's catwalk collections?

 

No. They are boring, but then so are the clothes.

 

As a designer how do you feel about model diversity in terms of race?

 

There is still a very specific idea of tasteful beauty as an image of European beauty, what I always notice is that deisgners that are not European stick to using models that fit the European group. It's just seems bizarre, but not bizarre in a good way.

 

Do you think this is something that is being improved more recently?

 

I haven't seen much of a change in this, but then I haven't consciously or actively been looking for it. Something that speaks volumes for itself as I shouldn't be looking for it, I should naturally see it.

 

What are your opinions on designers using celebrities for their campaigns?

 

Unessecary. It is another selling technique, linking consumer industries such as film and music together.

 

Following suit, do you think this hinders the status of true fashion models?

 

I have a certain opinion on this point, status can only be developed through work ethic, experience, a good portfolio and attitude. It is not about the competitor and it shouldn't be.

 

What do you think the modelling industry is lacking at the moment?

 

The fashion industry is a sea or unrecognisable similarity. Which leaves a lot of scope to make a stand. Models have to own the clothes they wear.

 

On which note, what do you think the future for models consists of?

 

Models are becoming more diverse. I would like to destroy the idea of the perfect image, and the idea of celebrity; it is hard to maintain an image of beauty or an icon or idol, as a model in the form of a muse is designed to epitomise. Perhaps this could move fashion somewhere new and exciting and give the fashion model a new purpose as an image, but still be what we want to consume.

 

 

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