Assessing the use of Asian models in the modelling industry.

Model Jing Wen is a Chinese beauty who has mesmerized the designers since 2013, but has really taken off in the past two seasons. Recent campaigns for Calvin Klein and Shiatzy Chen; work with clients as varied as Louis Vuitton, Love and Harper's Bazaar and some big upcoming projects all bode well for this gorgeous girl from Guangzhou. 

However, on reflection, very few ethnic models are given such limelight, as Caucasian models are used to advertise brands in non-western markets. In August 2009, ‘beach-savvy’ obsessed brand Hollister Co. extended their Asian expansion with a flagship store in the IFC Mall in Seoul, Korea. The brand flew in a full cast of all American male models to serve as living promotions for it’s grand opening. As for Asian market itself, Paris based Korean designer Moon Young Hee features no models of colour in her runway show’s despite her heritage. This in turn adds pressure to a loss of identity amongst those of Asian ethnicity. Model Issue questions why there is a fascination with the western image and why models of the Asian ethnicity are not valued in the same way? 

Echoing a clear issue, Asian models are more often than not, lost in translation when it comes to diversity, even more so than black models of who are highlighted the most when such conversation’s around model diversity arise. Whilst we are seeing improvements towards the use of multicultural models, change can only come from within the fashion and modelling industry itself. 

Therefore, on a positive note, we have seen more luxury brands responding to consumer sales and aiming to appeal to the Asian market, for example, Estée Lauder. The American cosmetics company has recently reached out to it’s Korean market by bringing Irene Kim on board next to Kendall Jenner. Kim was brought on to the Estée Lauder team as a global contributor, covering video content and trend analysis. The model, street style star and television host, has earned a high level of fame in her homeland and is the perfect, full package to represent the wider Asian community as a celebrity. Here we witness an Asian ambassador for a western brand who is well known for her celebrity status. This comes down to the current consumer response to social media and the desire of achieving a certain lifestyle. As a generation we consume data quicker than ever and whilst we are obsessed with being connected to our icons and peers quicker and in a more relatable way, we are losing the ideals of fashion models in the process. It is questionable that although an Asian model has been used, the idea of the reach of Irene’s talent is what is valued here by the brand Estee Lauder. 

There is also the fact that successful branding requires a form of storytelling in order to build on an aesthetic of either a desirable lifestyle or image that appeals to it’s consumers. With the current market percentages, this corresponds with the generalisation that Asians aspire to meet the ideals of Western beauty standards and lifestyle. In a recent quote by model lie sui, the model discusses her opinions on the asian market and how the western industry respond to them. “They want to appeal to the Asian consumer, but they actually have quite a low opinion of that consumer — they know Asians buy brands but don’t believe that they really have a sense of style: ‘Oh, they just buy whatever’s in the magazines.’ Is it any wonder they’re making all these missteps when they have that kind of a perception of their consumer?”

Although it could be argued that it is from a narrow minded outlook that the Asian market consume what is put infornt of them in magazines, it has been working so far based on the statistics of the market that buys in to luxury. Widely across the modelling industry we are seeing an increase in to the image of what models should look like. In 2011 for Lane Crawford's 2012 Fall/Winter advertising campaign, five of China’s top models: Fei Fei Sun, Liu Wen, Ming Xi, Shu Pei and Xiao Wen Ju. This marked an input into the use of Asian models being more than a 'different' fashion statement and more of a way to reassess the beauty standards of the Western community. The image is powerful and showcases these famous models for exactly the proffesion they are a part of. 

When reffering back to the Fashionspot.com statistics, Model Issue cannot help but highlight that even Asian designers themselves are not showcasing Asian models in their runway shows. Take Korean fashion designer Moon Young Hee, in the recent show season the designer used no models of colour. No one can force anyone to use models of colour if they do not want to, however this could potentially correspond with the ideals of how Asian women see themselves in comparison to the Western market. The western market sells an image that the Asian consumer likes to borrow and indulge in. Perhaps it's what the Asian conusmer wants to see?

Although we have discussed the bigger shift towards the image of Asian models earning a better recognition over recent years, at Model Issue we are undecided on what the key factors focus on a lack of Asian models being used despite Asian models curating the highest majority of luxury fashion sales. Needless to say, if we turned the title of this article around and questioned whether a race who do not vastly contribute to the amount of luxury sales and assess why their race is used most within fashion would the reason ever make the issue acceptable? 

Model Issue aim to raise awareness to the wider issues about the modelling industry and would love to hear your thoughts about the conversation we have started. Interested? connect with us on social media!